Intotherocks en

To carry on and honor the past

9 feb 2010, by Carlo Caccia


We have been eager to know their names, and here they are: those of the six teams that won the 2010 Mugs Stump Award. The award, consisting in a financial contribution assigned to “small climbing teams with fast and light alpine objectives”, was established in 1993 in order to honor the great American alpinist Terrence “Mugs” Stump, who had lost his life in Alaska, the year before. This year, the 25,000 US dollars collected by the organizers were divided up and assigned to the members of six expeditions: each project was awarded with a sum ranging between 1500 and 6000 dollars. Here the names of the winners:

-Colin Haley and Bjørn-Eivind Årtun, who had done the third repeat of the French Route on the north pillar of Mount Hunter (4441 m), return to Alaska to attempt a difficult new route on the south east face of nearby Mount Foraker (5303 m) in a single push;

-Jasmin Caton, Jen Olson and Kate Rutherford, who dream of an all-female (and all-free) ascent of a granite pillar on an unnamed peak in Greenland’s Tasermiut Fjord;

-Joe Puryear and David Gottlieb, who are determined to extend their successful sequence of first ever ascents on unclimbed dream mountains, head towards a mountain called Karjiang (7221 m) in the Tibetan Himalaya;

-Scott and Tom Adamson, who seek to accomplish a difficult new route on the east face of Moose’s Tooth (3150 m);

-Toby Grohne and Jesse Huey, who wish to move fast and light, to climb the north west face of Siguniang (6250 m, Qionglai Mountains, Chinese province of Sichuan);

-Dylan Johnson and Josh Wharton, who, after their unsuccessful attempt to climb the north ridge of Latok I (7145 m) in the Pakistan Karakorum together with Colin Haley, decide to try an alpine-style ascent of the gorgeous east pillar of Dojitsenga (5662 m) in the Kangri Garpo range, Tibet.

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Cover. The Mount Foraker south (left) and south east faces

Photo 1. Mugs Stump, during the bus-trip towards Gasherbrum IV (photo by Michael Kennedy)

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Links for further details

- 2007 Mugs Stump Award Winners:

- 2008 Mugs Stump Award Winners:

- 2009 Mugs Stump Award Winners:

-Haley and Årtun on Mount Hunter:

-Puryear and Gottlieb on Jobo Rinjang:

-Attempt on Latok I:

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Italian version (full text)

Foto cover. Il grandioso Mount Foraker. Al centro dell'immagine la cresta sud-sud-est salita nel 1976, con ben 8000 metri di corde fisse, da una spedizione francese. Alla sua destra, parzialmente in ombra, la parete sud-est: l'obiettivo di Haley e Årtun


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